Knitting machine and process for producing split fabric



March 10, 1931. F. E. JONES 1,796,2024

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed June l2, 1923 FlO Sheets-Sheet l '5a 62 I 4f Nx' y F191.

March 1o, 1931. F1 E, JONES f 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed June l2. 1923 10 Sheets-Sheet 2 Invenov: Ra-@7551K Jo nes.

Marh 10, 1931. F, E, CNES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Invenowf;

Ma'ch 10, 1931. F E JONES 1,796,22

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUGING SPLIT FABRIC Fil'ed June l2, 1923 l0 Sheets-Sheet 4 March 1o, 1931.

F. E. JONES KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed June l2,

10 Sheets-Sheet 5 "h-...W E

12a/venan- /04 anEJones.

March 10., 1931. F E, JONES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed June l2. 1923 10 Sheets-sheet 6 Iii/vena?.-

@aw/RE'. Jane@ y Til'VIarch 10, 1931. F. E. JONES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACINE 'AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed June l2. 1923 10 Sheets-Sheet 7 March 10, 1931. |=l E, JONES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Mavlch 10, 1931. E. JONES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FR PRODUCING SPLIT FABRIC Filed Jim@ l2, 1923 1o sheets-sheet 9 March 1.0, 1931. F. E JONES 1,796,202

KNITTING MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR PRODUGING SPLIT FABRIC Filed Jun 12. 1923 1o sheets-sheet 1o NJW Patented Mar. 10, 1931 *UNITED .STATES PATENT oI-Ficilz FRANK E. JONES, OF PAWTUCKET, VIRI-1013135 ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TOHEMPBIILL COMPANY, .DECENTRAL FALLS, "RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS KNITTING-'MACHINE AND PROCESS FOR"PRODU.CING 'SPLIT FABRIC Application filed .Tune 12, 1923.L Serial No.'644;874.

This invention relates to knitting machines and processes for producing split fabric, 'and more especially yltorcircular, automatic, knitting machines intended to knit split vfoot hosiery .and to vprocesses for producing :split forms 'of :pattern chains for making two for-ms foi zigzag suture lseams Fig. 2 is a `rear elevation Aof the entire machine;

Fi-g. is an end elevation thereof;

-liligzA 4-is a -view ofthe -machine partly in plan and partly insection yupon' the line 4 4 oflFigLl;

is airont elevation 'of thesmechanism shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is alrear elevation of the mechanism shown in Eli`ig. 4; y

Fig. 7 -is a'seotion upon the line 7--7 of Fig. 4Aa'nd ylooking Itowardthe right in said figure;

Figfis a left end elevation .of the mechanism shown in Fig. 4, 'looking toward the right 'in said figure;

LTEig. 9 is a side elevation cfa so-called seamless,.split work-stocking' made inaccordance. .with my invention;

'10,.is .anenlarged yiew ,showing .the character .and relative Ylocation of Icertain o t' I theloopsof.thefsutureseam formed iny accord- .'Ffig. 12 fis aside elevation showing one of the needles-and its jacks;

.Fig 13 is a development showing the arrangemcntfofcams, needles Aand jacks when knittingzat the regular .cam set the relatively nanrow stripe-with lwhich -thesplit work may be commenced;

Eig. 14 is asimilar development but indicating the knittingof a tapered continuation ot-.said stripe;

Fig. 15 is a diagram indicating lthe formationof the stripe and apart ofthe `zigzag continuation thereof;

Fig. 16 is a horizontal section taken through the :needle cylinder and showing the long and short needle butts in a somewhat diagrammatic manner;

Fig. ,17 is asimilar view but showing the jack :but-ts, and the jack widening :pickerin plan; and

,F ig. A18 is1a front .elevation vof a modified form of my invention.

My invention, While applicable tothe Vproduction 'of numerous lfabrics ,as Well as to various .parts of hosiery, more particularly 75 relatesto means forI producing reinforced or `,contrasting areas in hosiery, such, for eX- ample, as hig'h -splicesof triangular ,or other suitable shape by means of split Work, and to -a'inethod or process by which .suchffreinforced or contrasting areas are produced. I shall herein disclose mechanism Wherebythis result is accomplished. Such mechanism may be usedwith many .dierent Ytypes lofknitting machines. yI will, however, without limiting myself thereto, disclose the same as used in connection with a circular knitting machine rofrtlie so-called Banner Itypeand :organized `for producing split work, vbut not in itself capable of effecting the production of 9o a;reinforced or contrastingareahaving nonparallel sides, to ywhich latter feature my invention is more particularly directed.

. I willfirst describe in necessary detail a circular knitting ,machine 'for producing a 95 stocking `oi split work and will theny disclose the .fundamental ,changes therein and ywith which my invention `is particularly concerned.

,Theknitting machine herein disclosed, but 10o to which my invention is in no wise limited, embodies the characteristics of the socalled Banner machine fully disclosed in the U. S- patent to Hemphill, No. 933,443, dated Sep-V tember 7, 1909. Said machine has a frame 1r within which ismounted ,a needle cylinder 2 preferably, although not necessarily revoluble, and a non-revoluble cam carrier having an annular portion or ledge 4. Mountedv in the frame/.1 ,isV a main shaft 5l carrying ysuitable pulleys 6, 7 8,*respectively employed as quick speed, slow speed and loose pulleys. A pattern shaft)` is mounted in said' frame and has thereonv an appropriate cam or pattern drum 10. Upon Said pattern drum is a peripheral rib 'orcam 11 which engages with rov a follower 13 carried by a pivoted clutch shiftingy lever 14 connected with the usual clutch forg shifting from reciprocating to rotary* driving instrumentalities, and vice versa, said latterinstrumentalities being well known features of said Hemphill patent, and

for further information concerning the same reference may be had thereto. Y The follower l 13 is adapted to travell through cross slots 12. from one vside of the rib'11 to the other so as to eect the shifting of'said clutch member. One of said cross slots is shown in n to and fro or reciprocating movement not only during the knitting of the heel and toe pockets lofthe stocking, but also during the knitting of a portion" of the ankle, and particularly that part which includes the highv 'splice and also during the knittingof the foot, although, as stated, the `disclosed embodiment ofmy invention pertains more par.

v l tic'ularly to the .knitting of the high splice by` Va reciprocating movement, whereby through they formation of suture seamsat opposite sides ofthel stocking-fa reinforcing orcon# l `trasting'areais presented,-saidsuture seams jparallel to Vthe wales ofthe fabric;` and as being desirably, 'and as herein disclosed, alongihn'es which as as entirety are nonherein' shown are alonglines .crossing a Vse-V ries of consecutivewales of the fabric. As

*hereinafter more fully disclosed said suture linesfare or maybe at one end in proximity to 'each other and they'slope inopposite" directions at desirably .substantiallyY equal angles, whereby 'in the particular embodiment herein'disclosed a generally triangular varea is boundedfon two 'sides thereby. .In

accordance with inventionfthe reinforced orcontrasting area maybe atvthe backjor the front of the stocking, and'may be of tri' angular or other suitable shape involving the `production offinon-parallel suture lines, as

other in the illustrated embodiment. f *will' vmore particularly describe that embodimentl of the yinvention wherein the knitting is begun at the to the leo' in whichcase said Y C b? i suture lines (in the event that the reinforcingor contrasting area is not quadrangular in shape)y commence in suitable proximity to .each other anddiverge desirably in irregular lines andvdesirably at*` equal angles or symmetrically (though not necessarily symmetrically), wherebyA a reinforced or contrastingV area is produced, which is bounded on two sides by said two suture lines. ln the disclosed embodimentof the invention, said suture lines are inclined in a zigzag direction, 'thus crossing a series of wales.

y The means whereby 'such suture lines are produced will bev hereinafter more fully set forth; 1f 7 The cam plate 3 has provisions for a limited vertical movement, (the same being herein mounted upon the `usual cam slide 15 itself mounted for vertical ino-vement in the said frame 1 and carrying at its lower portion cani vfollowers 16, 17, 18, adapted to engage ribs upon the cam .19 mounted upon and adapted to turn with the pattern shaft 9,

said-cani being adapted to move said vcam slide up or down .toV vary the length of the loops during the knitting of the leg and other portions of the stocking. My invention may be practiceduponeither a spring beard needle or a latch needle machine, but desirably upon a spring vbea-rd needle machine. v For convenience of description, 'shall refer 4to certain features more Y particularly pertaining to spring beard needle work, such, for example, as the segmentalor partial ring carrying the yarn guides.- It is'to be understood that I suitable latch ring will be substituted for the partial ring. Herelnia partial ring 20 is pivoted atene side ofthe machine upon an upright post-`21-by -apivotal pin 22. rlhe said v partial ring is normally'locked in 'its operative positionby 'alatch 23 engaging a pin 24 upon thepartial ring.

The needles shown in the present embodiment of the invention are of the spring beard yneedle type, butV as hereinbefore'stated latch 'may employ latch needles, in which event a Y ter of the work 'to 'be performed upon the machine. Desirably as many 'as' twohundred and forty or two hundred and sixtyneedles A 30=secured to the cam plate 3. Appropriate movement is imparted to said slide by a bell crank lever 31 pivoted at 32 to the framing, one. armL of.y said lever .being connected by a link 33 with saidslide 29,.`the other arm being connected at 34 with'a link 35 connected in usual manner (not shown) with the upper end of the clutch shifting lever 14. Said connections are such that when said clutch shifting lever 14 is Yiii. the position for rotary knitting, the cams 27, 28 will be iny their lowermost or. depressed positions, and when said lever 14 isina. position to effect to and fro or reciprocating knitting, said cams 27, 28 will automatically bemoved to the upper position, and

thereby effect the withdrawal of the instep or l-ong butt needles whose butts are arranged to` engage said Cain 27xand be elevated thereby, said-'cam 27 being far enough from the face: of the needle cylinder to e-ngage only the long butts, thereby permitting the shortbutts to pass lwithout interference. The cam 28, however, isA placedclose up to the cylinder,:.so asto engage either long or short butts which happen'to be in their elevated positions when said cam 28 and the camk 27 aredepressed.l Mountedupcn the cam plate 3 with the instep cams is a cam block 37 arranged to slide radiallywith respect to the needle cylinder between suitable angle plates atopposite sides of said block and secured tothe cam plate 3. A spring 38 is interposed between said cam block and a suitable fixed abutment, such as the head of a screw 39, and constitutes means yieldingly to maintain said cam block. in its operative position with respect to the needle cylinder. Said cam .block 37 herein constitutes .the support for whatA are termedthefprimary knitting cams of the machine and herein consisting of the usual stitch cams 40, 41, a lower centralfgnide cam 42 and` an upper centralV guide cam or member vv43. Thek inner faces of the cams 40, 4,1, 42, 43 are' concaved and lie normally in the plane coinciding with the outer face of the needle cylinder 2, said cams being withdrawn from ,thisv position only when it isdesired to level the needles for transferring or when it is desired to Withdraw said cams to get Vatthe needles of the cylinder for the purpose'ofwithdrawing or replacing needles. rlhe usual means employed in the vBanner maolrinefor eitherymanually or automatically retra'cting the :cam vblock/37 for'v the.' purpose just described may be andcherein are'einployed,.but neednot be fully described. "They may be such asareshown in the saidLLawsony able construction tov thisend inay,.however,

be provided.

The said cam block 37 is also provided with a pair of narrowing picks 4'0, 40. pivoted upon said block ina mannerzcharacteristic of Vsaid Banner machine,- and arranged to `operate in the usual manner.

The said partial ring 2O isl also provided with thel usual supply of yarn levers at `the primary side, as indicated generallyV atf41 in Fig. 1. These leversmay be and are herein indica-ted as live in number and areihereinafter referred to as the primary yarn guides. The said levers are desirably operated inthe usual manner from the pattern ydrum l10. Also supported upon said ring 2O isan-arm 42 for the usual yarn clamping and yarn cuttin g devicesfor theprimary yarns. These may be of the usual type and are operatively connected with the. pattern shaft to operate automatically with the changing of the yarn. rlhe needle cylinder is provided with the usual web holder bed surmounted by the web holder cam ring 43, shown in Fig. 1, of the usual Banner construction and' having spaced lugs to engage the partial ring 20 so as to eliect relative movement between said cam ring and the sinker bed ring. ISaid parts operate in the usual manner and require no further description.

The parts hereinbefoie described are generally common to the Banner type of knitting machine and are operated automatically from the pattern shaft 9 by pattern mechanism indicated generally in Fig. 1.

inasmuch as an important and indeedI the main object of the invention is to provide a machine for knitting split fabric with suture lines which are inclined as an entirety-either converging or divergiing, but are zigzagged with both inclined and parallel portions, a l

secondary set of knitting cams isl provided, which set is indicated generally at 44 in Fig.

11. This set of knitting cams preferably in-y cludes a pair of stitch cams 45, 46, a lower guide cam 47 and an upperguide cam-48, said upper guide cam being automatically radially moved at suitable times as hereinafter disneedles. There is also provided an upper guard cam 49 for the upper guide cam, said- "1 guard cam 49 being stationary.

The inner faces of said `se-veral cams are concaved and are arranged normally to lie in a pla-ne substantially coinciding witli;.tlie plane of the outer face of the needle cylinder,

cluding those with long vlniitting butts WillV befactuated during knitting of certain parts ofthe stocking or .atfsubstantially the same time that other needles including the regular short butt needlesare acted upon as hereinafter stated. Said secondary cams may be ladju'staliilev verticallyv with respect tothe primary cams, in order to provide perfect align ment betWeenthe tWo,.and for this purpose any suitable means may beprovided. I have here indicated'for the purpose the said cams as mounted upon ,a plate k50 which is attached to a slide 51 secured tothe franiel.

:I preferably move the secondary knitting cams radially of the needle cylinder to Withdraw them to positions Where they Will not act' upon' needle butts, as, for example, when the needles areV to be levelled for transferringor when the needles have becomeV caught or are tobereplaced by hand. For this purpose, any suitable ineans may be provided. The cam block for the secondary c knitting cams isV desirably capable of manual as :Well as .automatic retraction, andY for this purpose any suitable means may be provided.

As more fully disclosed in said Lawson l"atent No. 1,458,833, there are occasions during the opera-tion of the machine when it is desirableto retract the upper guide cani 48 from its operative position independent of the cams 45, 46, as,'for example, when strokes of reciproca-tion are to be made in the knitting of split Work. For thisA purpose, said cam 48 may be slidably mounted in its cani block, so yas to be Withdrawn either manually or automaticall but preferably automatically .and by means hereinafter disclosed, and not vfrom the quadrant of the machine, as shown in said Lawson patent. v'lhe construction and oper,- ation ofY parts are such that desirably to- Wardrthe end ofeach stroke of reciprocation the guide cam'48 is moved out and then re-` turned, sopas to permit the butts of the elevatved needles that passed over the main knitting cains to pass bysaid cam 48 Withou'U being de-y pressed into knitting position as would be the case if said cam 48 remained in action.

Y Means are provided for yvvithdi'aiving tile Y c ai'nsr44 during heel and toe Work, but such provided to feed lyarn to the needles that f Y.are actuated by said auigiliary or secondary ,set of cams. Hence the secondary yarn guide ymovement 'doesnot interfere ivith the described Withdrawal of thel cani `48 during split v GG Work. y

Vhen an auxiliary or secondary set of cams is employed for split lWork, means must also reverse direction. `ment ofrthelong knitting butt needles to the the free end of said yarn guide is arranged in a suitable slot in the ring 20. A

IThe purpose of the secondary cams, as previously stated, is to function certain of the needles during the knitting of split fabrics, and where the formation of such fabrics is limited to av certain portionk of the knitted article, as, for example, the ankle'portion and the foot of a stocking, the secondary yarn guide must be moved into andV out ofitsoperative position When said secondaryjknitting cams are moved into and out of their operative positions.V Y Y The purpose ofsecondary cams 44"is, as previously stated, to functionzcertain of the needles during the knitting of split Work and Where the formation of'such fabric is limited to a certain portion of the knitted articles, as, for example, the ankleVV portion and the foot of the stocking, the secondary yarn guide 52 must be moved into and out of its operative position when saidk secondary knitting cams are noved into and out of their operative positions. While this result may be effectedV in any suitable manner, l have herein represented tlie secondary yarn guide 52 as adapted to be elevated out of position byl a lever 54 pivoted .at 55 upon the framing and connect-y ed by rod V5t tothe secondarylcam block or the movable cam 48 in any suitable manner, so that the secondary yarnguide 52 is in operative position when the secondary cams are operative, andvice versa, is out of operative position When the secondary cams are inoperative. Y

The guard cam 49 may be shaped substantially as shown in theV said Robertl H. Lawson patent, and may be'supported in the same manner.

rlhe usual needleywidening pickers 57, 58

foracting upon certain needles Varep'ivotally mounted, and preferably means of any suitable type are provided for holding said pickers intheir inoperative.position vvhen V'narrowing and Widening operations are not to be performed. 1 'i 'i Y Y Arranged at'the back of thel needle cylinder betvveen'the primary and secondary sets v of cams is a :switch cam 59 lsho-Wn most clearly in F ig. 11, and YVwhich may be of usual construction, being arranged to'engage only the long knitting butts and then only When the needle cylinder is travelling in a This Acauses the moveupper level.' A When the butts of the needles are passing in the opposite direction,namely,.forwardly` v along thefu'sual channel for circularv knit'- ting,j, the; long butt needles will engagel said switch cam 59 and throw the same up without' changing'the position ofn said needles,

it being provided with a suitable shaft or pivot and with a spring for holding said cam in the position shown, inl Fig. 1l.

Int machines for producing'split: work prior to those ofthe said'Rohert II. Lawson patent, the needles have been arranged into two` groups equal or substantially equal in number, so that the suture lines or seams were substantially parallel. In said Lawson patent is disclosed the provision ofv two groups of needles adapted respectively. to work upon opposite parts of a stocking# or other., .fabric in split work, certain needles being transferred. from` one of said groups to the other persistently.` as the work pro? gresses, so that the number of' needles in one group is markedly increased' and the number of needles in the other group is correspondingly decreased.

This latter principle of operation is followed in the present invention, buty instead of transferring a needle from one group to the other at: each end of each partial course throughout the tapered, formationV or area, I transfer theneedle from one group tothe other at each endof.'` a course or desirably a series of courses, and then during one and preferably throughout a number of courses retain unvaried the number of needlesvin the two groups. v

I- then repeat the cycle of operations as many times as desired, thus effectingy the formation of what may be termed zigzag suture seams.

While this result, which so far as I am aware, is broadly new, may be et'fectedin any suitable manner, Iv desirablyprovide a single double-acting widening jack picker to act upon each of a seriesof jacks positioned below the needles or the jacks thereof, so as at the Vcourses indicated to move the indicated jacks from an upper to a lower level, thereby causing said needles to function with the smaller group.v

I therefore provide means of any suitable type for retaining out of action at times the said single acting widening jack picker, such meansibeing controlled in any suitable manner'. As hereinafter more fully disclosed, I

shortbutt needles excepting such: central needles; as may be provided for knitting a relatively narrow stripe ofi any suitable length desirably along,l the medianback line of the stocking. Such jacks'are indicated at (iO-in thek several figuresi. As shownimost clearly inFigs.` land lil, said jacksv areof considerable length and are provided with butts 6l. The said Jacksfare v received-in the needle grooves below the needles or below the attached jacks of the needlesl if'thel latter constructionbe provided.

Herein I have represented in Fig.l 12 a spring beardv needle 62'having aA beard 63 adapted to be closed by the presser: 64. At its lower endlthesaidzneedle is desirablybent asindicatedati tOenga'gel the jack 66, which is in ef'fect' a permanentl parti of the needle when the needle. andjack areinposition in the machine; The jacks GO'arein eachl case distinct'from'butadaptedto move independent of its needley and alsovsubsequently. with its needle to movethelatter; The saidjacks are in turn brought under'the influence of the single doublel actingxwidening jack pick# er. 112 hereinaftermorefully referredito-and are'thereby moved downwardly; as indicated in thel diagram Fig. 14, `beingfbrought under the iniiuenceoffonefor theotlier of twojack cams 86, 87 hereinafter;moreY fully referred to andshown clearly/inFi'gs. 3, 4', 58-'and Il, and therebyy moved totthev lower; level. The needles corresponding tothe said: jacks; pass throughy andiknit; atl the l auxiliary cam` seti, but being short butt needles are not; rei-eletvated by theinstep cam27 tothe upper level and' therefore thereafter knit at theregular or primary camset instead of'V at the auxiliary cam set.

The number of needles in the two' groups may differ with thefsameA diam eterv of needle cylinder and'same o'auge ofy needle, intaccordance with the different designsito be-prOiducedf.. In the event that the article being knitted is a stocking, andy if the; reinforced or contrasting area ofthe splitwork is:l af high splice oftriangular form in approxi-mation, the' needles inthe group which knits said-high splice will at the commencementV of the' high splice be limited to a comparatively, few in number. n In. they present embodiment, of.t the. invention, I provide. for the formation of a stripe at the back median line of theV stock-l ing. Such stripe may be of any suitable length but it is 'desirably relatively short as indicated at 67 in Fig. 9, as the production of a long stripe will substantially increase the time required to knit the stocking. In the disclosed embodiment of the invention the said stripe 6T is desirabl'y knitted byl thirtysix needles in a machine employing 248 needlesin a three anda halfinch diamter cylinder. Therefore the saidA thirty-six' needles are notprovided with-jacks andi this fact is indicated. by the space68 in Figs. l'l and 13;',

` Fig. 15.

During theknitting of the said stripe 67 theV widening picker'112 is out of operation, butbeing then'brought into operation for desirably a plurality of courses, such, for example, as four, as indicated by the parts within the bracket 68a!l ofthe diagram, Fig.` 15,V

the stripe is widened at each side, or inother words, the high splice is commenced, being indicated by the line 68'in Fig. 9.

Thus.. I provide for the knitting of f a Vtapered high spliceorother contrasting area but instead of continuously upon each partial course transferring a needle from each end of the larger group'to' the smaller group, I dothis only at intervals, thereby producing the oblique suture lines such as 68,' 69, 70, 71,

72,73, 74, etc. .of Fig. 9, each of which crosses wales' of the fabric, while between the Vadjacent oblique lines 'of suture stitches, I form lines of suture stitches 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80 and 81, all of which extend along wales Y of the fabric without crossing the same.I In

'lio

thel diagram, Fig. 15, the courses within the bracket 7 5a are knitted upon the same number of needles, and the courses within the bracket 69a are each knitted upon an increasing number o f needles. vThis operation is continued tothe extent desired, and as hereV indicated down to the commencement of the heel pocket 82. 1

The foot of the stocking may be formed by splitwork as indicated by the line 83, and the number of needles in the two groups for the formation of the foot may be unvaried or may be variedas indicated for. the formation of the high splice or otherwise.

If the contrasting or reinforcing area is to be at some other part of the stocking than .the high splice area', obviously the grouping of the needles will be different fromthat described, and the number ofneedlesin each case willl dependnpon thesize and shape of the reinforcing or contrasting area.

The 'stocking may be commenced either at the top of the leg or at the toe, but desirably itis begun at the top of the leg and circular knitting proceeds in the ordinary manner to the commencemelnt'of the stripey 67. Thereupon the needlesfor'the first reciprocation of split work vare divided into two groups, one

group'consisting of all the long butt or instep needles and all the short butt or heel needles excepting said thirty-six shortlbutt needles lat the bac-k of the ankle, and the second group consisting of said thirty-six needles.V i y f f Assuming that the stocking is to commence at the top of the leg and the reinforced or contrasting area is to be a tapered high splice of the general character hereinbefore Ydescribed, the knitting` proceeds in the usual manner for circular work, -and the butts 61 of all the jacks travel below the flanges 84, 85 of the two jack cams 86, 87, which cams act upon the jacks during split work. Said cams 86, 87 are desirably fixed'in position about the lower part of the needle cylinder, as indicated in Fig. 8. During circular work, the-butts 61 of the jacks -60 merely pass idly at their lowermost level below said ianges 84, 85 of the cams 86, 87. Preliminary to the commencement of split work, it is necessary tol elevate alll of the jacks 60, so that their needles, which are short butt needles, may be brought into the upper level with the long butt needles, it being noted that preliminary to commencing reciprocating knitting all the long butt needles are 'elevated by the instep cam 27 to the upper level. n Y

For the purpose of so elevating the jacks 60 I provide a cam88 having two sloping faces'89, 90 meeting at a point, said cambeing positioned in a space of suitable width between the `cams 86, 87 andbeing movable into and out vof, operative position.

While any suitable means may be provided to move the said cam 88 into and out of position, I desirably employV the followingmeans by which said cam is moved radially under the control of a cam upon the pattern Vcam shaft 9,. I will describe the said means without specifically limiting myself thereto.

vAs most clearly shown in Fig. 4, I provide a bracket 91 secured to the bed plate and beneath the same positionfor radial movement, the said cam 88, the latter being provided with a pin 92, extending up through aI radial slot 93 in the bracket 91. A'lever 94 pivoted at 95 has a forked end 96 engaging the pin 92,

whereby movement of said lever moves the cam 88 into or out of functioning position.

At its outer end the said lever 94 is connected at 97 to a link 98 which is connected.

to a lever arm 99 upon a shaft 100 4,mounted thereon aleve'r arm 102 which is connected at 103 to a long downwardly extending link f 'jack cam 88 is heldin its outermost or inactive position, but when said lever toe drops into the space 111, said cam 88 is immediately moved into lits inner or functioning position between'the two ack cams 86 and 87,

`but is: removed therefrom.desirably substantially as soon as all said. jacks are moved to thex upper'level, which result is effected upon two successive strokes of reciprocation of the `needle cylinder; Viewing Fig, 11 it Vwill be evident that when: the cam 88` is in functioning'position and thefjacksare moving toward the left in saidf figure, such of the jacks as havefnot passed: the cam 88' ride up along the :incl-inedface 90 of said cafnr88 and then along the upper side of the; ledge 81 of the cani 8G, thereby moving to the upper level and consequently elevating their needles to the upper-"level` Upon the neXt stroke of reciprocation-Y-namely, the stroke in the opposite direction, the remaining' `jacks ride up along the inclined4 face 89 of the cam 88 onto the upper; faceI of the ledge 85 of the cam 8*?, so that said? remaining jacks move to the upper' level and thereby carry their needles to the upper' level. At this stage in the operationgaalli the needles arev at'the upper level exceptl those short butt needles which are withoutijacks and in' the ensuing reciproca- `tions shorty butt needles are periodically brought down tothe lower level', beginning atithe'inner'ends. of the two series of short butt needles, namely, those short butt needles which are iny two vgroups at the sides of said thirtyL-si'x 0r other selected number of short butt needles by which the stripe is made.L

Ian spllitwork' as practisedheretofore, prior toi the invention disclosedin the said Lawson patent, the long butt needles; knit at that side of the machine having the single yarn guide 52, that is,atthe auxiliaryside andthe short buttineedles'knit at the opposite side of the machinegfdnamely, that having the group 'ofi yarn' 'guides 4l-1the regular side,-it

beingunderstood that the two short butt needlesistanding respectively atthe two ends of theushortlbutt'seriesfunctionf as suture needles' by' acting` with: both sets 'of needles.`

Inxthe present organization this arrangement is: continued sothat the long butt ncedles knit at the side having the ger 52 the auxiliary sideg. and the other group of needles kni-tat the side having the'yarn guides L11 the regular sideE .In the present organization, as in the disclosure insaid Lawson patent, when a jack is at the upper level, the needle pertaining thereto knits with the long butt needles at the long butter instep needle side-that is, at the auxiliary side. In order to effect" the automatic transfer of a needle from time to time from the larger vgroup into the smaller, I employ ack picl'- ingmeans-this broadly ybeing disclosed in they said Lawson patent, but as hereinbefore v stated," and as hereinafter more fully deplished in different ways. I will' describe'the preferred embodiment of mea-ns for accomplishing the result stated without limiting my invention thereto.

I employ a single double-acting widening jack picker, which acts in each direction of stroke of the needle cylinder, so as to pick down one after another the jacks homy the inner ends of the two series of short butt needles which had previously been elevated to the upper level by the cams 88, 87, 88.

One forni of such widening jack picker is represented at 112 in the several figures.r It is provided with two notches 113, 114 respectively, these notches as shown beingl each of a size to bring down one jack at a time. If desired and within the scope of my invention either or both notches may be of a size to bring down two ora plurality of jacks at the Sametime, and if an irregular formation is desired, one ofthe notches may be larger than the other so as to bring down more needles. Desirably, however, the two notches are of the same size.

The said picker 112is pivoted within a space 115 between ears 116, 117 of a post' 118 as shown most clearly inFigs. 41 and 5, so that said picker may be rocked ina vertical plane against the force of a coiled spring 119 surrounding its pivot. The saidv post 118 itself is provided with a vertical stud 120 shown most'clearly in Fig. 5 as received in a suitable socket in the bracket 121 itself supported upon the'l'edge 1l. rfhe post 118 hascapacity to turn in.' a horizontal. plane and' therefore the picker 112 may move in either a horizontal or a vertical plane or in' a resultant inclined plane. The said picker, when in its active upper position, is received in a central notch within a guard or levelling cam 123, as shown most clearly in Fig. 7. Adjacent t0 the functioning end of the picker 112 is a plate 121i (Fig. 7 supported upon the bracket 121 and provided with a slot having the two inclined portions 125, 126, which at their meeting point receive the functioning end of the picker 112. The said inclined portions 125, 126 act, upon depressions ofthe widening picker through engagement with a jack, to cause said picker to move in an inclined path which is the resultant of the vertical and horizontalplanes in which said. picker and its post 118 are respectively mounted to move.

Ther said picker 112 is positioned as shown in 17 in the gap or space where the thirtysin or other selectednumber of centrally positioned short butt needles are without jacks'O.

In Fig. 1G., I have indicated by the bracket 12T the long butt needles and by the bracket 128 all of the short butt needles.

I have not herein attempted to show the actual number, but preferably I provide about one hundred an d twenty-eight long butt and one hundred and twenty-eight short butt needles in a three and. a half inch diameter lll) `cylinder and'in such case I may omit the jacks needles in each of the groups 129, 130.

I provide two independent means to act upon said widening jack picker 112. (lne of these'means is intended'to hold said widening picker out of functioning position upon the commencement of each stroke of reciproca* tion, such inactive position continuing for a part only of the stroke and being for the purpose of preventing said picker 112 from acting upon the jacks ofthe needle groups 129,

130 which are nearest the long butt needles, but permitting said picker to act upon the jacks at the inner or adjacent ends of said groups 129, 130. The other means provided to act `upon the widening picker 112 is for the purpose of rendering said picker wholly inactive for the course or courses when the parts of the suture seams are made which do not cross the wales of the fabric, such, for example, as the parts 75 to 81 of'Fig. 9.

Iv will describe the preferred embodiment of said two independent means to act upon the widening jack picker 112 without limiting f myself to such means.

As shown in Figs. 2, 3, 4 and elsewhere, the so-called 104 gear is indicated at 131. It rotates once for every four revolutions of the needle cylinder, and therefore rotates one fourth revolution substantially once for eachk complete stroke of reciprocation of the needle cylinder. Meshing therewith is a smaller gear 132 which has one half the numberof teeth of the gear 131 and therefore makes one half turn at each revolution or stroke of the needle cylinder. Said gear 132 vis fast upon a horizontal shaft 133 mounted in suitable bearings extending upwardlyv from; .the bracket 134 upon theV framing of the machine. Fast upon thev opposite end of said shaft 133 is a drum 135 (see Figs. 4 and 6) which therefore makes one half revolution at each revolution or stroke of the needle cylinder. Upon said drum are two cams, one of which is indicated in part at 136, and is provided with opposite tapered ends, and the other of which is indicated at 138. The said drum 135 rotates in a direction toward the top ofthe sheet with regard to the portion of the surface of said drum visible in Fig. 4. Within the path of rotation of the cam 136 is a lever 139 pivoted at 140 and having a roll 141adapted to be engaged by said cam 136 for a purpose to be hereinafter referred to.

As clearly shown in Fig; 4, the cam 138 takes under and rocks the arm 142 of a lever pivoted at 143 and having an arm 144 extending over and also beyondthe jack picker 112 and beneath a lever arm 145. Therefore upon each stroke of reciprocation of the needle cylinder the jack picker 112 is moved downward for the commencement of such stroke and so that said picker cannot act upon the outermost jack of the group 129 or 130, as the case may be. VThe release of the lever 142, 144, from the cam 138`permits the picker 112 to be elevated partly through the influence of the coil 'spring 119 and partly if desired through a spring connected to the lever 142, 144, thus restoring said picker to its active position and in time to .permit said picker to act upon the terminal jack at the inner end of the group 129, 130, as the case may be. l

The lever 145 is pivoted at 146 upon the framing and at its outer end has a pin taking into a slot 14.7 in a link 148 extending downwardly as represented in Fig. 1. Its lower end is connected to the arm 149 of a pawl pivoted at 150 and having a pawl member or arm 151 adapted to engage the pattern chain moved by ratched 152 upon the pattern shaft 9. When the pawl arm 151 is down, the link 148 being moved verticallyV upward, rocks downwardly the armv of the lever 145 that engages the leverv 144 and hence moves said lever 144 and the jack picker 1.12 downwardly into inoperative position. `Thus the .position of the pawl 149, 151 determines the periods of activity andinactivity for complete strokes of reciprocation of t-he widening jack picker 112.

The position of saidfpawl 149,151 is determined by pattern means and preferably by lugs or formations upon the pattern. chain 153. To that end said pattern chain may be provided with lugs of suitable length, as, for example, relatively short lugs 154 shown in Fig. 1a or longer lugs 155 shown in Fig. 1b, which extend in ea'chinstance to the adjoining shorter lugs 154, thus providing a double length or prolonged surface. Obviously the length of the lugs 154 or 155 may be varied as desired with the result that they take under and hold elevated for the desired length of time said pawl 149-151. Therefore depending upon the lugs 154, 155, the widening jack picker is held out of act-ive or functioning relation and during such time the parts of the suture seams arev formed which extend along wales of the fabric vWithout crossing the same, as, for example, the parts to 81 of Fig. 9. I

I have stated that the cam 48 (Fig. 11) is moved out of active position for a part of each stro-ke of reciprocation so as not to interfere with the butts of the needles at the upper level. While any suitable means may be prov vided for the purpose, said cam is'desirably Yoperated by the cam 136 upon the drum135 through the lever 139. For this purpose said lever 139 is provided with Vanv arm 157, the

edge of which takes against a collar 158 upon a link 159 which at one end is pivotally connected at 160 to a link 161 (see Fig. 6) operatively connected in any suitable manner, not Vshown to said cam L18 for moving the said cam as stated. rIhe opposite end of said link 159 is connected to a lever 162 upon a shaft 163 mounted 1n the framing of the machine and having` fast upon its end opposite the lever 162 an arm 16e. To the outer end of said arm 164 at 165 is pivotally connected a link 166 which as shown most clearly in F ig. 1 extends downwardly to and is pivotally connected to a suitable lever 167 adaptedto be operated by a cam 168 upon the pattern drum 1U. I have in Fig. 10 indicated upon an enlarged scale a portion of one of the suture seams when formed as indicated in Fig. 9. t is unnecessary to describe the loop formation in detail, but it will be observed that at the upper portion of said ligure within the bracket 169 the suture seam extends parallel to the wales, at the portion within the bracket 170 said suture seam crosses wales of the fabric, and within the bracket 171 said suture seam again extends parallel with the wales of the fabric without crossing the same.

I have described indetail means whereby and desirably through the action of a widening jack picker, the tapered formation is provided in a. series of steps which progressively enlarge the high splice area. My invention is not limited to the formation of a high splice area norto the formation of a Zone or area, the size of which is always increased by steps, since within the scope of my invention I may provide means whereby a Zone or area may iirst be enlarged by steps and then decreased in` size by steps. Such a zone or area would or might be roughly speaking of' a diamond form but with zigzagged or stepped sides. To provide such an area I preferably employ a widening jack means such as that herein described and also provide a narrowing jack means which may be rendered periodically active and inactive as may be required and in accordance with the dictates of the pattern chainv or some suitable pattern formation. YWithout limiting myself thereto I will describe one form of means for that purpose which is shown in Fig. 18.

, In said ligure wherein I have also shown the widening jack pickerl112 and a portion of its controlling means, I have represented a singlejdouble-acting narrowing jack picker 172 having two notches, one of which is shown at 178 and which notches may each control a single j ack or either may control two or a plurality of acks. The said narrowing ack picker is pivoted at'174in a manner similar to the widening jack picker 112, so that it may havea resultant movement in oblique lines. `When said picker is down, it is in fun 'oni position, but when elevated, it is in inactive position. To control the position of said narrowing jack picker 172 I have provided a lever 175 pivoted at 176 upon the framing and connected at its outer end at 177 with a link 178 extending downwardly to and pivotally connected to a lever 179 itself -ffivoted npon a stud 180 and having an arm 181 adapted to ride upon a cani or series of cams 182 upon a formation carried by the pattern cam shaft 9. Y When the lever 179 rides upon the cam 182 the narrowing ack picker 172 is out of action, but when said lever 129 rides in a space said narrowing jack picker 172 is brought into action and therefore the suture seams will be caused to cross wales of the fabric for a number of courses depending upon the length of the space 183. Any other suitable means may be provided to accomplish the broad result of decreasingly varying the number of short butt needles taking yarn at the regular or primary side, thereby causing the suture lines to approach in a step by step manner instead of receding in a step by step manner as is the case when the widening jack picker 112 is functioning.

Having thus described one illustrative embodiment of the mechanism of my invention, the article thereof and the best mode known to ine for practising my invention, I desire it to be understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the scope of the invention being set forth in the following claims.

Claims:

1. In a circular knitting machine for the production of split work, a needle cylinder having a circular series of needles, a cam carrier having at least two spaced sets of stitch cams, means relatively to reci )recate said needle cylinder and cam carrier, means to introduce distinct yarns to needles at saidv stitch cams respectively, and cooperating means to cause substantially simi'iltaneous knitting at both cam sets and the interengagement of the fabric sections knitted thereat, thereby forming split work with suture seams, and means whereby during the forniation of split work a plurality of groups of successive courses are formed, in each of which groups inclined suture wales cross wales of the fabric but are formed upon a diffe-rent series of needles tha-n those of other of said groups, so that nclinations progress as whole transverse .3 i the iaoric, and a plurality of groups of interposed successive courses are formed during each of which the suture seams continue along wales without crossing the same but in parallelism with each other, said means including jacks for certain of said needles, each of said jacks being distinct from but adapted to move independently of its needle, and also subsequently with its needle to move the latter,

anda single, double-acting,'jack picker to act iipoiisaid jacks.

2;,ln a circular knitting machine for the reduction of s lit Work a needle c vlinder having a circular series of needles, aicam carrier having at least two spaced sets of stitch cams, means relatively to reciprocate said needle cylinder and-cam carrier, means to introduce distinct yarns. to needles at said .stitch cams respectively, and cooperating independent of its needle and also subse- CAL quent-ly with its needle to move tlie latter, Vand a sinGle double acting Jack picker to act upon said jacks.

V3. lnv a circular knitting machine for the productionof split Work, a needle cylinder i having a circular series of needles, a cam carrier havin@r atleast tivo spaced sers'of C L stitch cams, ineans relatively to reciprocate said needle cylinder and cam carrier, means to introduce distinct yarns to needles atsaid stitch cams respectively, and cooperating means to cause substantially simultaneous knitting atboth cam sets andthe iiiterengaga ment of the fabric sections knitted thereat,

Vthere v forming sjlit WorkV with suture seams, certain of said needlesless than the entire number each having a.- ]ack distinct l; from but adapted to move lindependent of its needle and also subsequently with' its needle to move the latter, a single doublel acting, jack picker to act upon said jacks and means to render'said jack picker inoperative at one or more'times during split Work.

t. In a circular knitting machine for the production of split Work, a needle cylinder ,jhavinv a circular series of needles a carrier having at least tivo spaced sets of' stitch cams, means relatively to reciprocate said needle cylinder and cani carrier, means to introduce Vdistinct yarns to needles at said 'stitch cams respectively, and cooperating means to cause substantially simultaneous L knitting at both cam sets and the interengagenientof the fabric sections knitted there- 'atythereby forming split Work with suture seams,certain at least of said needles each having a jack distinct from-but adapted to 'imove independent of its needle and also subsequently with its needle to move the latter, a single, double acting, liack picker to act successively kupon said gacks, pattern chain means, andmeansto control said j ack picker from said pattern chain.

5. A circular Vknittingf machine compristively to rotate said carrier With its needles and said support to produce tubularyvork,

ing in combination, a series of needles, a car rier therefor, a cam support, means rela-k iffeaeoe meansrela-tively to reciprocate said carrier With its needles and said support thereby simultaneously to produce a pluralityof seg;

mental portions, and means tounite during the knitting operation saidy segmental portions by lines of suture loops, said means inf cluding a series of jacks and a corresponding series of needles, each of said-Jacks being dis-YV tinctfrein but adapted to move independ-- ent of its needle and also subsequently With its needle to move the. latter, and a single double acting jackpicker4 to. act upon said jacks.

therefor, a cain support, means relatively to rotate said carrier With itsneedles and said support to producetubular Work, means rel-A atively to reciprocate said carrier with its i needles and said support thereby simultaneously to kproduce a plurality ofv segmental portions, and means to uniteduring the knit-- ting operation said segmental portions by 6. A circular lniitting machine comprising in combination,a series of needles, a carrierl lines of suture loops, said means including y a series of iacks and a corresponding series of needles, each of said jacks beingdistinct from but adapted to move independent of its needle and also subsequently with its needle to move the latter, `said means includ-v ing a. single, double acting, jack picker to act upon the acks, and means to render` the same inoperative at times during split Work.

7. In a circular stocking knitting machine for the production of stockings having-split Work, a needle cylinder havinga circular `series of needles, a cain carrier ,having two spaced sets ofstitcli cams, means relatively to reciprocate said needle cylinder and VVsaid cam carrier for the production of a. split Work area in said stocking, means to introduce distinctyarns to needles at said stitch cams re-k spectively, cooperating means to cause sub- Ystantially simultaneous knitting at both cam sets and the interengagement of the fabric sections knitted thereat, thereby vproducing in the stocking split Work Withfsuture seams,V

certain of Vsaid needles less than the entire number each having a jack distinct from but adapted to move independent of its needle and also subsequently with its needle to ,move the latter, a single, double actingjack picker and means to rendersaidlgack picker inoperative at one or more times during split Work.

8. In a circular stocking knitting machine lfor the y'production of split Work, a needle cylinder'having a circular seriesfof neeflles, .Y

a cam carrie-r having tivo spaced sets of stitch cams, means relatively to reciprocate said needle cylinder,.and cam carrier to form the high splice or ankleportion of themstock;V ing, means to introduce distinct yarns to' needles at said stitchY cams respectively, cooperating ineans to cause substantiallysimultaneous knitting atl both cam sets and the 

